Historical Organs and ancient churches in remote villages of the Mixteca Region of Oaxaca

18 years ago, when my wife and I were traveling together with our four children, a good friend we were visiting in Italy asked my youngest child, a boy turning 12 at that time, what was his favorite place in the world. My wife and I expected an answer like Barcelona, or Northern Spain, or some place we had visited in Italy. Our son answered"Oaxaca!" He made us laugh, but the more I think about it, it seems to be a very good answer.

The courtyard of the Stamp Museum

(Museo de Filatelia) in Oaxaca,

site of the headquarters of the

Historical Organ Society of

Oaxaca

 

As I wrote posts this week about Oaxaca, I realized how much of Oaxaca could be of interest to those who read this blog, how many beautiful churches and towns we could visit together, and how limited was my personal experience, and how over the next few months, I would like to travel back here, and visit so many beautiful places that were built in the XVI and XVII centuries.

Pictures of Historical Organs

 throughout the region of Oaxaca

IOHIO headquarters, Oaxaca

 

A very commendable movement has been sponsored by philanthropist Alfredo Harp Helu, forming an organization called iohio, which stands for Institute of Historical Organs of Oaxaca. They organize concert trips, visiting churches throughout the region,  with organs that have been restored,  from the XVIII century.  The concert trips usually is a five or six day affair, and they have guest organists from Europe who come and perform in the concert series.

Map of Oaxaca showing the villages

with churches with historical organs.

 

Cecilia Winter is the director of iohio. The Internet site is iohio.org.mx. The Baroque Organ Festival includes programs in the Cathedral of Oaxaca and in La Soledad, both in the city, as well as concerts and events in Huayapam, Santa Maria de la Navidad Tamazulapan, Santo Domingo Yanhuitlán, Santa Maria Zautla, Tlacochahuaya and Tlaxiaco.

 

Church of Our Lady of Carmen, el Alto, Oaxaca

Main Altar,

As we leave the Cathedral of Oaxaca, we go past the ex Cloister of Saint Paul, then past the great Santo Domingo Church, and we gradually walk uphill, to "el alto", the "higher up", towards the Church of Our Lady of Carmen, "el alto", the "higher up".

 

Nave, Dome and Main altar.

Notice how the Churches of

the Carmelites always seem

so white and bright inside!

 

This place was once a temple here before the arrival of the Spanish, a temple, the Teocalli of Huaxyacac, where every July, a virgin was sacrificed,  in honor of Centeotl, the goddess of corn and agriculture.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

Side altar in Carmen El Alto

This feast gave way to a new Christian feast, the Guelaguetza, a feast still celebrated here in Oaxaca every year. In place of the Teocalli, the established a hermitage in honor of the True Holy Cross.

 

At the end of the XVII century, the Hermitage was replaced by this Church in honor of Our Lady of Mount Carmen.

Elegant street in Oaxaca leading up from the

area of the Cathedral to where Santo Domingo

 and Carmen el Alto are situated.

This ancient tree gives shade to

the dusty but pleasant atrium of

the Carmen el Alto Church

The ex-Cloister of San Pablo, Oaxaca

An old abandoned cloister, the cloister of San Pablo, once an important part of the religious life in Oaxaca, has returned to life, becoming an important cultural center, giving life and beauty to downtown Oaxaca.

 

The Cathedral of Oaxaca, Our Lady of the Assumption

Started in 1535, and consecrated in 1733. One of the bell towers had to be rebuilt after the earthquake in 1931.

 

Back door to the Cathedral

Side entrance to the

Cathedral

View of one of the sides

of the Cathedral

Organ in main nave

The main Façade is flanked

by stone sculptures of

Saints Peter and Paul,

and is topped by a frieze of

Our Lady of the Assumption

Façade and left side of Cathedral

In front of main garden downtown Oaxaca

Closer look at stone figures

Façade of Cathedral

Detailed engraving on stone

pillars forming door frame.

Ornate carving of Arch and keystone.

Main entrance to Cathedral

Side Chapel of the Holy

Sacrament

Bronze sculpture of Our

Lady of the Assumption

by Todolini.

Dome and valut.

Our Lady of the Rosary Chapel, Santo Domingo Church,Oaxaca

Considered by many to be the most beautiful and regal church in Mexico, founded by the Dominican Friars and Missionaries in the XVI Century, is the Basilica of Santo Domingo, in the city of Oaxaca.

 

Our Lady of the Holy

Rosary Chapel, Oaxaca

Main altar and Retablo.

Dome of the Chapel of

Our Lady of the Holy Rosary,

 Oaxaca

 

Stucco vault ceiling in the back section of

the Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary

Doorway leading out of the Chapel

into the main body of the Church.

 

Side door entrance to

Santo Domingo

 

Main altar retablo of

Santo Domingo

Gilded stucco ceiling of main vault

of Santo Domingo Church 

Retablo of Our Lady of

Guadalupe

Main aisle and body

Interior of the Church

Santo Domingo

Baroque gilded stucco work

representing vegetation.  

Façade of Basilica de Santo

Domingo, Oaxaca

View of the Façade of the Basilica

of Santo Domingo, Oaxaca and Atrium

On the right, the separate entrance

to the Chapel of the Rosario.